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100
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Vintage  Fashion  and  Art

 showcasing

100

Years of Fashion

 

1920 Dresses (click on image to see more detail)

The Roaring 20s

World War I ended and euphoria was the order of the day. Fashion responded by dropping waists to high hip levels and dresses became unfitted. While some gowns retained the design complexity of the Teens, the trend was toward Simplicity. Simple bodices, shaped using only a few tucks or shirring at the shoulders, or a little gather at the side seam reflected this new freedom. As the decade began hem lines perched above the ankle but in only three years skirt lengths had risen to unprecedented and – to some – shocking heights!


Necklines were usually a simple scoop or “V” but when collars were used they emphasized the long line. Sleeves were either long and straight or with bell shaping. Chiffons, light silks, soft velvets, lamés, lightweight wools and soft cottons made up the fabrics. Sometimes a sash was applied to the hip but dresses also fell in a straight line. Although dresses were simple in construction, detail was apparent in surface ornamentation such as embroidery, soft braid, and beading for evening; or fabric manipulation such as pin tucking or pulled threadwork. Tabard style sheer or semi-sheer dresses were worn over matching slips.


As the “flapper era” became established, hemlines continued their scandalous ascent and had reached the knee by 1926. The drop waist continued its popularity but skirts and bodices became more complex with seaming, circular flounces and floating panels. Decorative seaming, contrasting fabrics, and overlays began to appear. Quality, previously apparent by means of complicated fit and construction was now expressing itself through fabric and by manipulating a single layer of material. Time-consuming and costly beading was immensely popular, especially for dance dresses.


Skirt levels, that some believed were indecent, were tamed in the 1928/29 fashion collections and asymmetrical hemlines (knee length in the front, longer in the back) made their appearance to forecast the longer hemlines of the 1930s. Waistlines gradually rose to resume the position nature had intended.

Designers of the 1920s included: Patou, Molyneux, Chanel, Boue Souers, Louiseboulanger, Augustabernard and Vionnet.

Credit: The Vintage Fashion Guild

 
Actress Louise Brooks in 1927, wearing bobbed hair under a cloche hat. 
Credit for text and photos: Wikipedia

During the 1920s, the notion of keeping up with fashion trends and expressing oneself through material goods seized middle-class Americans as never before. Purchasing new clothes, new appliances, new automobiles, new anything indicated one's level of prosperity. Being considered old-fashioned, out-of-date, or—worse yet—unable to afford stylish new products was a fate many Americans went to great lengths to avoid.


For women, face, figure, coiffure, posture and grooming had become important fashion factors in addition to clothing. In particular, cosmetics became a major industry. Glamour was now an important fashion trend, due to the influence of the motion picture industry and the famous female movie stars. Style, at many social levels, was heavily influenced by the newly created, larger-than-life movie stars. For the first time in history, fashion influences and trends were coming from more than one source. Not unlike today, women and men of the 1920s looked to movie stars as their fashion icons. Women and men wanted to emulate the styles of Hollywood stars such as Louise Brooks, Greta Garbo, Rudolph Valentino, and Clark Gable

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1920 Delphos | Fortuny, Mariano 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1920 Vitaldi Babani Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920-23 Vitaldi Babani Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Callot Soeurs, Evening dress, petticoat and belt 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1920s B. Altman & Co. Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Vitaldi Babani Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Maria Gallenga Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923 Evening dress | Natalia Goncharova 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1923 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 La Flute | Paul Poiret 

 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1924 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 Jeanne Lanvin Dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924 Myrbor Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924 Byzance | Patou, Jean 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1925 Jeanne Lanvin Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 House of Drecoll Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Chanel Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 Goupy Dress 

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1926 Dress and jacket | Ruth Vaughan Lodge  

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1926 Tennis dress | Hepburne Scott 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1927 Evening dress | Nabob 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1927 House of Patou Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1927 Textile by Maria Gallenga, Bonwit Teller & Co., 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1927 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY 

1927 Jeanne Lanvin Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1928 Madeleine Vionnet Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925-30 Maria Gallenga

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1929 Lynch-Birnbaum

from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

1920 Jessie Franklin Turner

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1920s Fortuny Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920-23 Vitaldo Babani Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1921 to 22 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Lucile Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923-26 Paul Poiret Dress 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1920s Fortuny Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Maria Gallenga Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923 Jeanne Lanvin Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923 Jeanne Lanvin Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 House of Drecoll Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924-26 Coco Chanel Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924 to 25 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 to 25 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 to 25 Vitaldi Babani Evening Metropolitan of Museum, NY

1925 Evening dress | Voisin  

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1925 House of Worth Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art

1925 Madeleine Vionnet Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY.

1925 Callot Soeurs Evening 

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1925 Anne and Therese Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art

1925 to 26 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 to 26 Callot Soeurs Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 Myrbor Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1925-26 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 to 27 Chanel Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1927 Coat Jeanne Lanvin

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1927 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1927 Boue Soeurs Wedding Metropolitan of Museum, NY

1927 Valentina Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1927 to 28 House of Chanel Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1928 Peggy Hoyt Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1928 to 29 House of Chanel Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1928 to 29 House of Chanel Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1929 Madeleine Vionnet Label  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1929 to  30 Madeleine Vionnet Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1929 Bergdorf Goodman Metropolitan Museum of Art

1920 Delphos | Fortuny, Mariano 

 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1920 Fortuny label 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Fortuny Label 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920 to 21 Callot Soeurs Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Jeanne Lanvin Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1922 Madame Havet Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Jean Patou Evening dress Back of Dress 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Lucile Label 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Edward Molyneux Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Boue Soeurs Evening  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923-24 Jeanne Lanvin Metropolitan Museum of Art

1920 to 25 Boue Soeurs 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923-27 Liberty & Co. Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923-27 Liberty & Co. Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 Callot Soeurs Dress 

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924 Paul Poiret Day Brique 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1920s Fortuny Label 

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1920s Fortuny Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Maria Gallenga Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920 to 1925 Boue Soeurs

 Metropolitan of Museum, NY

1920 to 25 Liberty & Co Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Martha Weathered, Inc.  Metropolitan Museum of Art

1925 Jean Patou Label, Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 House of Patou Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Paul Poiret Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Paul Poiret Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 to 26 Callot Soeurs Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 Henri Bendel Cocktail Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 to 27 Lucien Lelong Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 Madeleine Vionnet Dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926-27 Edward Molyneux Metropolitan Museum of Art

1926-28 Georges Doeuillet Metropolitan Museum of Art

1927 Coco Chanel Evening Metropolitan of Museum, NY

late 1920s House of Patou Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1928 Dress | Liberty & Co. Ltd. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

late 1920s House of Chanel Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

late 1920s House of Chanel Lbl Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1929 La Samaritaine 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1929 Madeleine Vionnet Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

Tulle Skirts by cestcany.com

1920 Delphos | Mariano Fortuny  

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1920 Fortuny Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Fortuny Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920 to 21 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 Madeleine Vionnet  

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1922 Callot Soeurs Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

early 1920s Madeleine Vionnet Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1922 to 23 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1923 to 24 Callot Soeurs Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1924 Callot Soeurs Dress Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924 Martial and Armand Evening dress 

Metropolitan Museum of Art

1924 Maria Gallenga Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Maria Gallenga Label Metropolitan Museum of Art

1920s Maria Gallenga Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1920s Maria Gallenga Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Vitaldi Babani Label Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Vitaldi Babani Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925 Dress with matching jacket (dress), House of Worth 

from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

1925 Philippe and Gaston Evening ensemble 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1925-28 Dress (in two parts), Jean Patou 

from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

1925 to 26 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 Callot Soeurs Evening dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1926 House of Chanel Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art

1925-30 Jessie Franklin Turner Metropolitan Museum of Art

1926-27 Jeanne Lanvin Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art

1926 to 27 Callot Soeurs Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1927-29 Lucien Lelong Evening Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1927 to 29 Eldridge Manning Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

1928-29 Jean-Charles Worth 

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1929 Alice Herbin and Co. Metropolitan Museum of Art

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